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Fashion in Medieval Europe (1000-1300)
Korean Minjok Leadership Academy
International Program
Lee, Youngkyoung
Term Paper, Medieval History Class, June 2009
Table of Contents
I. Introduction
II. Definition of Terms
III. Fashion in Medieval Europe
III.1 Classification According to Eras
III.1.1 Romanesque Era (11th-13th centuries)
III.1.1.1 Overview
III.1.1.2 Fabrics and Furs
III.1.2 Gothic Era (13th-14th centuries)
III.2 Classification according to social classes
III.2.1 Nobility
III.2.2 Commoner
III.2.2.1 Ordinary Commoner
III.2.2.2 Wealthy Merchant
III.3 Classification according to gender and age
III.3.1 Men
III.3.2 Women
III.3.3 Children
III.4 Classification according to occupations
III.4.1 Knight
III.4.2 Lord
III.4.3 Peasant
III.4.4 King
III.4.5 Monk
III.4.6 Nun
III.4.7 Bishop
III.4.8 Servant
III.4.8.1 Men
III.4.8.2 Women
IV. Beauty in Medieval Europe
V. Sumptuary Rules
VI. Comparison to Historical Movies
VI.1 Ivanhoe
VI.1.1 Setting
VI.1.2 Fashion of Characters & Analysis
VI.1.2.1 Ivanhoe
VI.1.2.2 Rowena
VI.1.2.3 Rebecca
VI.1.2.4 The King
VI.1.2.5 Knights
VI.1.2.6 Others
VI.2 El Cid
VI.2.1 Setting
VI.2.2 Fashion of Characters & Analysis
VI.2.2.1 Rodrigo
VI.2.2.2 Ximena
VI.2.2.3 The Princess and the King
VI.2.2.4 Others
VI.3 Brother Sun, Sister Moon
VI.3.1 Setting
VI.3.2 Fashion of Characters & Analysis
VI.3.2.1 St. Francis
VI.3.2.2 Others
VI.4 Kristin Lavransdatter
VI.4.1 Setting
VI.4.2 Fashion of Characters & Analysis
VI.4.2.1 Kristin
VII. Conclusion
Notes
Bibliography
I. Introduction
Europe in Medieval Ages looks quite mysterious to us living in 21st century. Many facts about that era trigger our curiosity. In case of fashion,
some may imagine luxurious color, puffed skirts, and extravagant decorations. Others may think of people wearing drab-colored clothes made
of coarse fabric. In fact, however, both are right and wrong at the same time. Fashion of Medieval Europeans was diverse due to various factors.
Also, Crusades brought breakthrough in fashion by importing fine textures from the East. In the medieval history class, there was the opportunity
to see 4 movies with medieval Europe as their settings. Medieval fashion depicted in those movies will be analyzed and compared with the reality.
To sum up, three following questions are going to be dealt with throughout this paper.
How social backgrounds did influence fashion in the Middle Ages ?
How did fashion (clothes, accessories, shoes, hairstyles, etc.) differ according to the eras, social classes, gender, regions or occupation ?
Did the historical movies depict only the truth ? If not, what kind of omissions, exaggerations or mistakes they applied ?
II. Definition of Terms
In this paper, the term, ¡°fashion¡± covers styles and customs including not only about clothes but also about hairstyles, shoes,
and accessories. The period of Medieval Ages is too broad and the opinions on this between historians are quite controversial.
So, I limited the range of Medieval Ages between the years between 1000 and 1300, which is from the 11th century to the 14th
century. In other words, Medieval Ages covers both the Romanesque Age and the Gothic Age. Also, realm of "Europe" is
focused on Western Europe countries such as France, British Isles, Italy, Norway, and Spain (1). Some
neighboring countries will also be mentioned briefly.
III. Fashion in Medieval Europe
III.1 Classification According to Eras
III.1.1 Romanesque Era
III.1.1.1 Overview
The Romanesque Age took place in the 11th, and 12th centuries (AD 1000?1100). It is also called as the Romanesque Age. The
Romanesque Age almost coincide with the High Middle Ages. The key historical trend of these eras was rapid increase of population
in Europe, which brought about great social and political change from the preceding era. (2)
When Western Europe was finally stabilized after Dark Ages, Byzantine culture became popular in Eastern Rome. Also, still-powerful
Roman Church called armies from across Europe to a series of Crusades against the Seljuk Turks, who occupied the Holy Land. The
Crusaders, who went on an expedition to recover the Holy Land, forgot their original purpose and they brought great development in
production of clothes. Europeans made contact with the East and took interest in the Eastern culture, and it led to Gothic style of
fashion (3). Plus, through the several Crusades, new fashion, fabric, and technique of cultures of Muslim, Egypt,
and Byzantine flowed into Europe.
This age was also the peak period of feudal age, and the society was closed being self-sufficient. Churches in those days were mental
refuge. And they also taught weaving, needlework, metalwork which played a decisive role in developing clothes and accessories fashion
(4). Plus, several Crusades brought mousseline, damask, sateen, and velvet from East, thus fashion of Western
Europe improved a lot in both quantity and quality. (5)
From this time, clothes became notably complex and colors became various. One of the real innovations in medieval fashion was that men's
and women's clothing began to develop in completely different directions (6). Thus, making clothes became a
difficult job and needed more mastery. And this led clothes-making to be the job of tailors, not one of domestic duties of women
(7).
III.1.1.2 Fabrics and Furs
Wool remained the primary fabric for clothing of all classes, while linen undergarments, which were more comfortable against the skin and
could be washed and then bleached in the sun, were increasingly worn (8). Also, through Crusade, silk and cotton
were imported and widely used as combined weave with linen or wool. Silk, although extremely expensive, was readily available to wealthy
people. Fur was worn as an inside lining for warmth. Vair, the fur of the squirrel, was particularly popular and can be seen in many
illuminated manuscript illustrations, where it is shown as a white and blue-grey softly striped or checkered pattern lining the mantles of the
wealthy (9).
III.1.2 Gothic Era
The Gothic Ages refers to the period between 13th and 14th centuries. This coincides with Late Middle Ages, which is a term to describe
European history in the period of the 13th and 14th. The Late Middle Ages were preceded by the High Middle Ages, and followed by the
Early Modern Era (Renaissance). (10)
Around 13th century, European prosperity and growth came to a halt. A series of famines and plagues, such as the Great Famine and the
Black Death, reduced the population by as much as half according to some estimates (11). Along with depopulation
came social unrest and endemic warfare. France and England experienced serious peasant risings: the Jacquerie, the Peasants' Revolt, and
the Hundred Years' War. Because of the failure of Crusades and growth of citizens, the authority of the Catholic Church diminished
(12). Collectively these events are sometimes called the Crisis of the Late Middle Ages. Despite this crisis, the 14th
century was also a time of great progress in arts and sciences.
Knowledge, arts, and industries that spurred by Crusades went through a breakthrough in 13th-14th centuries (13).
In case of fashion, a variety of fabrics of the East flowed into Europe, and this brought about manufacturing of fabrics. Reasonable cutting
had placed itself in 13th century. Plus, service uniforms improved a lot. With need to protect the body of military men more effectively,
three-dimensional form of clothes appeared. Also, coat of arms of each family began to appear on shields. These were used to distinguish
one's army at first, but later used in tournament to present each knight¡¯s family. Parti-colored costume also appeared in the beginning of 14th
century (14).
In 12th century, drapery styles, which shows contours of human body, was popular. On the contrary, in 13th century, heavy and loose silhouette
was widely used because of the Black Death and entailed calamities. At the end of 13th century, soft fabrics expressing body curves started to
regain their popularity (15).
Plus, the newly rising nobilities increased because feudal lords who participated in Crusades sold their feudal privileges to merchants. These
new types of nobility imitated fashion of knights or aristocrats. As textiles got abundant from international trades, excessive amounts of fabrics
were used to make clothes in those days, so, clothes that are quite exaggerated were made. As economy grew, many merchants and commoners
wore clothes that were alike with clothes of nobilities, so it became difficult to distinguish them.
III.2 Classification according to social classes
III.2.1 Nobility
Nobilities wore clothes made of fine fabrics such as silk, cotton, and soft linen. Their clothes were decorated with jewelries, velvet, and fur. Tunic
of the nobility was trimmed with fabrics of different color. To be specific, the neck part, the middle of the front part, and the end of the skirt part
was trimmed for ornamental uses (16). Townspeople copied the style of the rich people although they used cheaper
fabrics. Besides, the length of the over-tunic showed their status, so poorer people used to wear them to the knee, merchants to the calf, clergy
and professional classes to the ankle. Manteau of nobility was also trimmed or embroidered under the influence of Byzantine fashion. Shoes of
nobility were made of soft leather, pelt, velvet, and sometimes fabric woven with gold thread were used too. The length of these shoes represented
the social status of the person who was wearing them. Longer the shoes were, higher the status was. Unlike the commoner, the nobility used
accessories such as an aumoni?re which later became popular among commoners, too.
III.2.2 Commoner
III.2.2.1 Ordinary Commoner
As lives of commoners developed, their fashion also became better in shape and color. However, compared to fashion of nobilities, their clothes
were coarse and shabby. They usually wore underwear made of hemp. In case of peasants, their fashion was simple and pragmatic. They wore
short, knee-length tunics and braises. The skirt parts of their tunics were split into half to make big movements easier. The divided fabrics were
fastened to the side of the belt. Straw hats were widely worn by farmers to protect themselves from sunlight or rain. Peasant women spent much
of their time spinning wool, which was then woven into cloth and then made into garments. Therefore, poor people's clothes were cheap, rough
and woollen (17). Common women sometimes imitated the fashion of noble women. For example, they covered their
hair and neck and wore bliauds to express the body¡¯s silhouette. Sheep-skin cloaks were worn in winter to keep out the cold and rain and, while
working the land, peasants used to wear clogs to keep their feet out of the mud. (18)
III.2.2.2 Wealthy Merchant
Wealthy merchants aroused as newly-risen aristocrats in the period between the 13th and the 14th centuries. They were much richer than the peasants,
however they didn¡¯t have social status as high as existing nobilities. These wealthy middle-class people gained higher status as established feudal lords
who participated in the Crusades sold social position to them in order to earn money. Since then, merchants tried to follow the fashion and the lifestyle
of nobility.
III.3 Classification According to Gender and Age
III.3.1 Men
The major fashion of men in Romanesque Age includes chainse, bliaud, and mantle. Due to Germanic influence, men's wear became short to reach
knee until 1100. And it elongated after Crusades. Males always wore braies (soft and wide pants) or chausses (a kind of pants) under chainse.
Men's chainse was a bit shorter than women's. However, when it was cold, men also wore long chainse (19). In the Gothic
Age, there were plenty of kinds of men's wear such as braise, chemise, cotte, surcot, cortardie, houpplande and mantle. Bliaud in Romanesque Ages
was forgotten and simple clothes like cotte and surcot were widely used (20). Tendency to show curves of human body
was much more remarkable in men's clothes. And this fact can explain the appearance of extremely short men's wear such as pourpoint and chausses.
Pourpoint which originated from the Crusader¡¯s gipon was the man's special clothes.
Men's hairstyle was usually short hair and aristocrats or the riches put on hats. There were several kinds of shoes; short-neck, long-neck, buckled
ones and so on. As the contacts with the East became frequent, the toe of shoe got sharp from 11th century. In 12th century, shapes of shoes became
much sharper, some strange shoes came out. For example, there were shoes that had 5 cm long toe, shoes looked like snake tails or fish tails
(21). In the 13th century, men's hairstyles were simple compared with women's. They draped their curl to their shoulders,
and sometimes wore crowns. There were many kinds of hats males wore and some hats were worn by both nobilities and commoners. Phrygian bonnet,
which had sharp front, was widely used. Cale was made of linen and fastened with band under the jaw. It was worn from the 13th to the 15th centuries.
Some wore bonnets and chapeaus over cales. In addition, calotte (a half-round hat), toque (a crown shaped hat), chaperon (a hat covers head completely),
and chapeau (a pelt hat with high crown and diverse sunshades) were used (22).
III.3.2 Women
Women wore chainses, bliauds, mantles as basic fashion, and also corsage to show curves. Women¡¯s chainses were alike to those of men's, however
bliauds of women were with more decorations and made of different fabrics. Female bliaud was alike with male bliaud in base. But, the upper part was
much tighter and showed body line. On the other hand, the part below the waist became wider downwards, so there were many pleats. In other words,
the upper part and the upper arm parts exposed silhouette, and the part below the waist and sleeves were exaggerated in a showy way. A long veil,
finely worked, and fastened on the head, covered the shoulders and hung down to the feet, completely hiding the hair, so that long plaits falling in front
were evidently not then in fashion (23). Noblewomen wore chemise, cotte, surcot, cotehardie and corset. Chemise was made
of thin linen or silk and it played same roll with chainse in Romanesque Ages. They also wore cottes and surcots over chemise.
Usually cotte covered instep, and women¡¯s cottes were a bit longer than men¡¯s cottes. There were many kinds of sleeves; wide dolman sleeve, tight
sleeve, and sleeve that fastened with buttons from elbow to cuff. Upper side of cotte was relatively fit and skirt part was wide and pleated. Although
wools in variety of colors were used, pink was usual.
Women usually braided their hair in two or three strands, and some winded ribbon around those braids. Noblewomen sometimes wore tiara, but they
usually used little veils called wimple to shade from their heads to their necks. Besides, women wore amber or garnet necklaces, crystal earrings, rings
and so on. Later on, they divided their hair in two parts, braided it and rolled them to make big bundles on both sides of head. These puffed-out hairs
were sometimes decorated with gold or silver threads. Plus, they wore thin tiaras, small veils, or barrette. Barrette was made of white linen, it was
pinned up to hair bundles and leftover part was put inside the clothes. Sometimes, they even used wigs to make their hair look richer. Women, in
addition to their head-dress, often wore a broad band, which was tied under the chin, and gave the appearance of a kind of frame for the face.
III.3.3 Children
Clothes of children were almost the same with the adults. In medieval European families, most kids lived with their father and mother and brothers and
sisters. Because people died young from diseases, a lot of kids also lived with other relatives, or just with an older brother or sister, because their
parents had died. Most kids never knew their grandparents, who had died before they were born (24). Children's wear line
was based on smaller simplified, versions of our adult clothing, as it was in period. Most clothing for younger children was relatively simple in form
and therefore had a very unisex look (25). They sometimes wore belts around their tunics, too. Hoods or coifs were often
used as hats of children in Medieval Ages.
III.4 Classification According to Occupations
III.4.1 Knight
The clothes worn with a Knights Suit of Armor afforded both comfort and protection to the knight. The under clothes wore consisted of a linen
under-shirt and linen under-pants. They also wore woolen stockings covered the legs. A knight's underclothes were important as they prevented
the armor from chafing the Knights skin. A padded garment known by various names such as Aketon, Arming coat, Doublet, Gambeson, Hacketon
consisted of a quilted coat which was either sewn or stuffed with linen or even grass was used. This served as padding for additional armor worn
over the top. A surcot was a robe, with a belt around the waist, which was placed over the body armor. The surcot was emblazoned with the coat
of arms or device of the Knight in order to identify the knight in battle (26). The Parts of a Medieval Knight's Suit of
Armor were a complex series of garments, chain mail and iron plate. The pieces of a Knights Suit of Armor covered the most vulnerable parts of a
knight's body.
The armor used in the Medieval Ages was gradually perfected, until at length the knight became a living fortress. A Medieval knight's armor was
vital on the battlefields of the Medieval Ages. The knight's armor provided essential body protection from the various weapons which were used
in battle including the two-handed sword, bow and arrows, crossbow, battle axe, mace, dagger and lance. Padded garments and Chainmail
were used prior to the development of suits of armor and subsequently worn in conjunction with the armor suits. The medieval knights¡¯ armor
was designed and developed to protect them from any new, and even more lethal, weapons that were introduced during the violent period of the
Medieval Ages. (27)
III.4.2 Lord
Medieval Ages clothing and fashion, including the medieval lord Clothing, like everything else was dictated by the pyramid of power which was the
Medieval Ages feudal system. Medieval clothes provided information about the status of the person wearing them. The clothing and fashion during
the Medieval Ages was dominated and highly influenced by the kings and queens of the era. Only the wealthy could dress in fashionable clothes.
Sumptuary laws restricted people in their expenditure including money spent on clothes (28). The medieval lords had fine
clothes with decorative belt buckles and other jewelry.
Some caps lords wore had a point at the top, to which a long streamer was attached, and the peak turned up in front. They dressed in a robe fastened
round the waist, and having long bands attached to the sleeves near the wrists. Some were fastened at the collar by a round buckle, and two bands
of stuff forming a kind of necklace. A long cloak which descended to the instep was used, too. Closed shoes, which had then begun to be make
pointed, and his belt has no hangings in front (29). In general, their clothes were sumptuous and extravagant.
III.4.3 Peasant
The clothing of peasants was basic, practical and not decorated. The dress of the men in the lowest ranks of society was always short and tight,
consisting of breeches, or tight drawers, mostly made of leather, of tight tunics or doublets, and of capes or cloaks of coarse brown wool. The
tunic was confined at the waist by a belt, to which the knife, the purse, and sometimes the working tools were suspended (30).
The man wore a short woolen tunic belted at the waist over short woolen trousers. He also wore a small hat over a woolen cowl and boots on
his feet. The female peasant wore a woolen dress over a woolen underskirt. She had a woolen cowl to protect her head and shoulders and boots
on her feet (31). Gloves were only worn for their practical clothing value and were padded for use in tasks such as hedging.
Although their usual clothing was simple and plain, they wore their best clothes during their weddings including shoes and hats. The groom wore a
short woolen jacket over a woolen tunic, stockings and shoes on his feet and has a small cap on his head. The bride wore a fine woolen dress
over a woolen underskirt and linen headdress.
III.4.4 King
Fashion of kings was described like the following, "He went into his garden dressed in a camel's-hair coat, a surcot of linsey-woolsey without
sleeves, a black silk cloak without a hood, and a hat trimmed with peacocks' feathers. At other times he was dressed in a coat of blue silk, a
surcot and mantle of scarlet satin, and a cotton cap." (32)
The distinct characteristic of kings' fashion was fur. Un-wealthy people couldn't afford to buy fine, expensive furs, and then they used fur of squirrels
or rabbits in order to keep themselves warm. Profuse extravagance was displayed in furs of kings. Royal documents detail that in order to trim two
complete suits for King John of France (1319?64) no fewer than six hundred and seventy martens' skins were used. It is also stated that the Duke
of Berry, the youngest son of that monarch, purchased nearly ten thousand of these same skins from a distant country in the north, in order to trim
only five mantles and as many surcots. A robe made for the Duke of Orleans, grandson of the same king, required two thousand seven hundred
and ninety ermines' skins. (33)
Luxury was at its height when gold and silver, pearls and precious stones were lavished on clothes. Massive belts of gold and long stocking or hose
were also worn. The stockings were of the same color and material as the breeches, and were kept up by the lower part of the breeches being
pulled over them.
Shoes were generally made pointed; as the fashion of the Polish points. The ordinary material of the surcot for the rich was cloth, either scarlet, blue,
or reddish brown, or two or more of these colors mixed together. They wore surcoats of a colour to match their arms, which were embroidered
upon them.
III.4.5 Monk
The color of the habits, the name for the clothes of the medieval monks, varied according to their order. The earliest Benedictine monks wore
clothing consisted of white or grey habits which were the colors of un-dyed wool. However as time went by black became the prevailing color
of their clothes, hence the term "Black Monks" has come to signify a Benedictine Monk. The Cistercian and Carthusian orders of medieval monks
adhered to even stricter rules than the Benedictines and wore un-dyed wool for their clothes to proclaim their poverty. Their habits, or monks¡¯
clothes, were generally a greyish-white, and sometimes brown. The Cistercian monks were referred to as the "White Monks".
Each Medieval monk had two tunics and two cowls, a scapular for work, shoes and stockings. The extra tunic allowed for washing and night-time
wear, as the Cistercian monk slept in his habit. They wore brown robes with hoods around their heads. Sometimes monks wore wool t-gowns
with a cowl collar called a habit (34). Some monks imposed suffering on themselves by wearing hair shirts under their
habits, and others would also wear a cross upon a chain around their necks. (35)
III.4.6 Nun
Most nuns would live in the ministry. Nuns would wear tunics like most women would do in the medieval ages. It would usually be in black or
white rather than brighter colors (36). The color of the habits, the name for the clothes of the medieval nuns, varied
according to their order as monks¡¯ habits did.
A nun's habit was tied around the waist with a cloth or leather belt, and over the tunic was a scapula. A scapula was a garment consisted of a
long wide piece of woolen cloth worn over the shoulders with an opening for the head. A nun¡¯s hair was roughly shorn and her head, and
any remnants of hair, was hidden from view as the nun's head was covered by her wimple or veil. The front of the scapula was secured with a
small piece of rectangular cloth that snapped the sides together (37).
III.4.7 Bishop
Bishops were very busy people who were important to the people and to the kingdom. They were accepted in royal courts. Bishops lived in the
life of luxury as rich middle-aged people did. Since bishops were so rich, they dressed very lavishly. The bishops would wear a hat called miter.
Bishops wore many of the same clothes as the federal lord who was very important and highly classed. Bishops had religious garments to wear
also so they won¡¯t always dress the same as the lord. (38)
In 1215, a church council made it mandatory for all the Christian clergy to wear a distinctive dress. Its purpose was not to necessarily elevate the
status of the Christian clerics; it was intended that they would catch the public eye if any member of the clergy visited a tavern, a house of prostitution,
etc. (39) To be more specific, they wore cassock, a long-sleeved, hoodless garment most often made of lightweight
black fabric. Cassocks are generally ankle-length. And they also had to wear clerical collar. (40)
III.4.8 Servant
III.4.8.1 Men
Male servants wore thigh-length tunics and long woolen leggings. Men wore something on their heads like a cap or hat. Men didn't have to worry
about washing their clothes because their wives did the wash. Men sometimes had clothes on for days without the clothing being washed
III.4.8.2 Women
Female servants wore long dresses made linen and wool, too. Women often had a kerchief also made of wool. Women had a lot on their Hands so
their clothes smelled really bad. Women had to clean their dirty clothes including not only hers but also her husband¡¯s themselves.
IV. Beauty in Medieval Europe
In medieval Europe, figures of pregnant women considered beautiful. Thus, medieval women wore clothes like bliauds. A bliaud exaggerated a
woman's thin waist and round stomach. One special feature of women¡¯s bliaud was long ribbon around the waist and hip. By wearing these bliauds,
women look pregnant even when she's not.
Plus, in the medieval ages, sexual desire was restrained. As a result, small breast and hip, white skin, blond hair and wide forehead were the necessities
for beautiful women. These characteristics explain the fashion in the medieval ages. In case of hairstyles, women¡¯s hair was pulled tight and tied at the
back of the head, so forehead of women looked abnormally wide.
V. Sumptuary Rules
The Medieval fashion and dress of the medieval Ages was dominated and highly influenced by the kings and queens of the era. Only the wealthy
could dress in fashionable clothes. Laws dating back to the Romans restricted ordinary people in their expenditure. These were called Sumptuary
Laws. The definition of the word Sumptuary is derived from the Latin word which means expenditure. English Sumptuary Laws were imposed by
rulers to curb the expenditure of the people. Sumptuary laws might apply to food, beverages, furniture, jewelry and clothing. These Laws were
used to control behavior and ensure that a specific class structure was maintained.
The sumptuary legislation passed in 1363 included the following:
- Women were, in general, to be dressed according to the position of their fathers or husbands.
- Wives and daughters of servants were not to wear veils above twelve pence in value
- Handicraftsmen's and yeomen's wives were not to wear silk veils
- The use of fur was confined to the ladies of knights with a rental above 200 marks a year
- The wife or daughter of a knight was not to wear cloth of gold or sable fur
- The wife or daughter of a knight-bachelor not to wear velvet
- The wife or daughter of an esquire or gentleman not to wear velvet, satin or ermine
- The wife or daughter of a laborer were not to wear clothes beyond a certain price or a girdle garnished with silver
- Cloth of gold and purple silk were confined to women of the royal family
- The importation of silk and lace by Lombards and other foreigners were forbidden
These Sumptuary Laws distinguished seven social categories and made members of each class easily distinguished by their clothing. (41)
VI. Comparison to Historical Movies
VI.1 Ivanhoe (1952)
VI.1.1 Setting
late 12th century, England
VI.1.2 Fashion of characters & analysis
VI.1.2.1 Ivanhoe
Ivanhoe¡¯s clothes represent noble men¡¯s clothes. In the movie, at first Ivanhoe wore tight pants, short tunic, and mantle. It also corresponds
to the result of our advance research. He also wore belt and hat with feather. He changed his clothes quite often in the movie. However, the
basis of his fashion doesn't change; tunic, belt, tight pants and mantle.
VI.1.2.2 Rowena
Rowena's clothes represent that of ladies. She wore yellow dress and little tiara when she was watching the tournament. And she wore white
loose dress when she first met Ivanhoe. According to the advance research, in the Romanesque Ages being the setting for this movie, women's
big stomach was considered to be beautiful. So women¡¯s clothes at that time emphasized women¡¯s bulging stomach. However, Rowena's
clothes are dresses that are beautiful from modern point of view. We could assume that this is to make audiences more interested. If Rowena
was wearing clothes that would be really similar to the clothes in the Romanesque Ages, people watching movie would been thinking, "Is Rowena
pregnant ?"
.
VI.1.2.3 Rebecca
Rebecca's family had quite a lot of money. But we cannot say she was a lady because she was a Jew. Her fashion has the same error with
Rowena's. Her clothes are too pretty from the modern point of view. In the movie, Rebecca used veil to shade her face, especially in opened
places like the the tournament arena. This could be because of her nationality.
VI.1.2.4 The King
The king wore a crown and fur vest. At that time, not everyone could wear fur. So, this could be the indication of king¡¯s power. The king
wore bliaud, fur vest, and necklaces and gloves. Bliauds were clothes in Romanesque Ages that noble men wore to look more majestic and
elegant. This fact could be one of the reason the king is wearing bliaud instead of tunic.
VI.1.2.5 Knights
They are wore armors that are made of small pieces of steel. Such armor was convenient to move bodies, but was easily rusted and heated
by sunlight. They represented their coats of arms on their armors.
VI.1.2.6 Others
The colors of clothes of commoners are plain and simple. It is in line with the facts from the advance research. Generally used colors are brown,
green and so on. The army of commoners not wearing uniforms but different clothes, because they couldn't afford uniforms.
VI.2 El Cid (1961)
VI.2.1 Setting
11th century, Spain
VI.2.2 Fashions of characters & analysis
VI.2.2.1 Rodrigo
Rodrigo is a knight, so he represents the nobility class. He¡¯s wearing tight pants which are braise. He¡¯s also wearing a mantle, a tunic, and a belt.
He usually wears red-colored clothes and long boots. His fashion is quite similar to the real fashion in Romanesque Ages. He also wears fur over
his mantle.
VI.2.2.2 Ximena
Ximena is a daughter of a wealthy nobleman, so she¡¯s a lady. Her clothes are quite elegant and have many decorations. She wears clothes of
bright colors such as white. During the movie she often changes clothes. She wears dresses that show silhouette of body which is the characteristic
of fashion in Gothic Ages. So, this setting may be the result of desire to make the movie more interesting. In the movie, Ximena also wears
black clothes to express her sorrow for her father's death.
Her clothes are very different from that of her maids. As shown in the movie, the colors of their clothes are very different. Colors of maid's clothes
are dark and plain. However, colors of her dresses are bright and gorgeous. This may be the result of distinction between the social classes or just
because of practical reasons.
VI.2.2.3 The Princess and the King
The commonly used colors are red and gold. This indicates that they are royalties. In case of the princess, she wears earrings and crowns made
of gold. The princess is wearing a mantle over her dress, and her clothes presenting contrast to the clothes of her maids. According to the
Sumptuary Laws, the princess is allowed to wear purple dresses. However, the princess in the El Cid doesn't appear in purple dress.
VI.2.2.4 The Others
The clothes of the commoners are almost the same. The colors of their clothes are almost always only green and brown. Many of them are wearing
hoods, which was the generally worn hat in Romanesque Ages. Nuns usually wore clothes of achromatic colors such as black, white or sometimes
brown. Which were the colors of un-dyed wool. In case of children, their clothes were not that different with that of adults¡¯. They wore tunics and
bound belt around their waist.
VI.3 Brother Sun, Sister Moon (1972)
VI.3.1 Setting
Settings of movie :Medieval Italy (1200-1220)
VI.3.2 Fashions of characters & analysis
VI.3.2.1 St. Francis
Before Francis decides to become an ascetic, he wears quite good clothes, as his father is a rich merchant. When he becomes an ascetic, his clothes
are shabby. This characteristic was not the common one between ascetics or priests. Some of them wore good and clean clothes. However, as St.
Francis of Assisi was the one who tried to go near to the poor, so his clothes wasn't luxury style at all.
VI.3.2.2 others
Francis¡¯s father and bishop are wearing unique hats which are coifs. A coif was hat that was widely worn in Gothic Ages by men. Plus, although
not a nobility, Francis¡¯s father is wearing a luxury clothes. In those days, as merchants¡¯ power became strong, wealthy merchants started to
follow the fashion of nobility. So, Francis¡¯s father was one of those wealthy merchants. In case of Francis¡¯s mother, she is a nun in the movie.
So she's wearing grey, which is an achromatic color, clothes. She is also wearing wimple around her face to shade her hair and neck.
VI.4 Kristin Lavransdatter (1995)
VI.4.1 Setting
Settings of movie :Medieval Norway
VI.4.2 Fashions of characters & analysis
VI.4.2.1 Kristin
In medieval ages, women were, in general, to be dressed according to the position of their fathers or husbands. Kristin is a daughter of a peasant.
So she is a common female. In the movie, she wears simple, plain clothes. This was the fashion of commoners in medieval ages. They didn't
have lots of clothes, and they wore the same clothes in every season. When it gets cold, they wear several clothes one over another.
VII. Conclusion
In conclusion it necessary to point out that medieval fashion is a broad theme needed in-depth research. Nowadays, the interest to this theme is
growing together with interest to the medieval history as whole. Historians and scientists have recently reviewed their views concerning Medieval
Ages, and now they are perceived not as "Dark Ages" of destruction, but rather as time of European unique culture formation giving raise to
wonderful culture of Renaissance and, consequently, to modern culture of Western Europe.
The fashion research helps us to learn more on history, culture, thought of people at that time and social background of corresponding period.
Clothes reflect religious, moral and practical ideas. As an example there is an image of a pregnant woman, which was so popular among medieval
ladies. This image is a straightforward notion of how religious was the society, making women to dress up to copy Virgin Mary in her pregnancy with Jesus.
That means that fashion is not just a thing that may be interesting only for those relating to the fashion industry. It gives an opportunity to historians
and culture experts to see deep into people¡¯s thought, establish reasons for customs and traditions, even to see underlying facts leading to historic
and cultural events that had changed European history at one point or another and brought Europe to the current state.
VII. Notes
(1) This followed the definition of Western Europe used by UNESCO.
(2) Article : , Wikipedia
(3) Go 2008 p.114
(4) http://rankris.egloos.com/299096
(5) Chung 1981 pp.130-131
(6) Fashion Encyclopedia
(7) Go 2008 p.121
(8) Article : 1100-1200 in Fashion, Wikipedia
(9) ibid.
(10) Article : , Wikipedia
(11) ibid.
(12) Go 2008 p.130.
(13) Chung 1981 p.140
(14) Boucher 1966 pp.187-188.
(15) Lee, Choi, Choi 1987 pp.138
(16) ibid. p.112
(17) Medieval Fabric, http://www.xtec.cat/crle/02/middle_ages/alumne/scene1/punt2/index.htm
(18) ibid.
(19) Lee, Choi, Choi 1987 pp.129, 139
(20) ibid.
(21) Choi 1981 pp.154-155
(22) Lee, Choi, Choi 1987 p.149
(23) Medieval Women¡¯s clothing, from Middle Ages Website
(24) Life of Medieval Children, from History for Kids
(25) Medieval Children¡¯s clothing, from Revival Clothing
(26) Medieval Knight Clothing, from Middle Ages Website
(27) Knight¡¯s Armor, from Middle Ages Website
(28) Medieval Lord Clothing, from Middle Ages Website
(29) ibid.
(30) Medieval Peasant Clothing, from Middle Ages Website
(31) Medieval Life, from History on the Net
(32) A description of king¡¯s clothing worn by King Louis IX of France (1214 - 1270),
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-kings-clothing.htm
(33) ibid.
(34) Monk, from Medieval Clothing
(35) Monks Clothes in the Middle Ages, from Middle Ages Website
(36) Nun, from Medieval Clothing
(37) Nuns Clothes in the Middle Ages, from Middle Ages Website
(38) Bishop, from Medieval Clothing
(39) Clothes of Clergies [!] in [!] Middle Ages
(40) Article , Wikipedia
(41) Sumptuary Laws of the Middle Ages, from Middle Ages Website
Bibliography
Note : websites quoted below were visited in June and July 2009.
All Wikipedia articles cited below are from the English version, except noted.
Primary Sources
1. El Cid (1961), directed by Anthony Mann, 182 min.
2. Ivanhoe (1952), directed by Rochard Thorpe, 106 min.
3. Brother Sun, Sister Moon (1972), directed by Franco Zeffirelli, 135 min.
4. Kristin Lavransdatter. Liv Ullman. 1995.
Secondary Sources
5. Article : Standard of Beauty Differed from Ages and Situations/ Individual Standards
Were Also Varied, in Korean language, Daily Chosun, August 9th 2003
6. Article : ,
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Middle_Ages
7. Article : ,
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Late_Middle_Ages
8. Article : ,
Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clerical_clothing
9.
Mystery in the Middle Ages, clothes
http://www.xtec.cat/crle/02/middle_ages/alumne/scene1/punt2/index.htm
10. Europe in Middle Ages from
Fashion Encyclopedia, http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/
11. Medieval Women¡¯s clothing,
from Middle Ages Website
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-womens-clothing.htm
12. Monks Clothes in the Middle Ages,
from Middle Ages Website,
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/monks-clothes-in-the-middle-ages.htm
13. Clothes of Clergies in Middle Ages,
from Covenant Seminary
http://www.covenantseminary.edu/worldwide/en/CH310/CH310_T_32.html
14. Sumptuary Laws of the Middle Ages, from
Middle Ages Website,
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/sumptuary-laws-middle-ages.htm
15. Nuns Clothes in the Middle Ages,
from Middle Ages Website,
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/nuns-clothes-middle-ages.htm
16. Clergy (monk, nun, bishop), Village, Castle,
from Medieval Clothing
http://library.thinkquest.org/04oct/00333/Plair%20Gennarelli/myweb/index.htm
17. Medieval Peasant Clothing, from
Middle Ages Website
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-peasant-clothing.htm
18. Medieval Children¡¯s clothing, from
Revival Clothing
http://www.revivalclothing.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=33
19. Medieval Knight Clothing, from
Middle Ages Website
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-knight-clothing.htm
20. Knight's Armor,
from Middle Ages Website, http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/knights-armor.htm
21. Medieval Lord Clothing,
from Middle Ages Website
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-lord-clothing.htm
22 Medieval Women's clothing,
from Middle Ages Website
http://www.middle-ages.org.uk/medieval-womens-clothing.htm
23. Life of Medieval Children, from
History for Kids http://www.historyforkids.org/learn/medieval/people/
24. Medieval Life,
from History on the Net
http://www.historyonthenet.com/Medieval_Life/clothing.htm
25. Medieval Standard of Beauty,
by Creator88, in Korean,
http://kin.naver.com/detail/detail.php?d1id=6&dir_id=612&eid=T/bVwOuXw9wQDMI+dK0vWGv/6SNOtKiL&qb=7KSR7IS4IOuvuOydmCDquLDspIA=&enc=utf8§ion=kin&rank=4&sort=0&spq=0&pid=fCqo1doi5TlssbN86Fhsss-072113&sid=SkqoigGZSkoAAGdIIi0
26. The history of beauty through the ages,
from UK Hairdressers
http://www.ukhairdressers.com/history%20of%20beauty.asp
27. Go, Ae-ran, A History of Fashion, Kyomunsa 2008 (in Korean)
28. Chung, Heungsook Grace, A History of Fashion, Kyomunsa 1981 (in Korean)
29. Jung-ok Lee, Young-ok Choi, Kyoung-suk Choi, 1987
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